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Small engine coils rarely go bad or fail to function on single cylinder engines,although twin cylinder engines seem to have more of a problem, especially briggs.The flywheel has a magnet attached to it in a certain spot and as it passes by the coil,it causes the coil to charge and send a spark to the spark plug.There are no power wires going to the coil.The only wire on todays engines attached to it besides the spark plug wire is a ground wire that is attached underneath coil and it runs through usually a safety switch circuit on lawnmowers or a cuttoff switch on other applications.However if a power wire gets attached to this ground circuit by mistake it will blow the coil.Ihave seen this before, also it will smoke or burn the hot wire that is attached by mistake.Older briggs and tecumseh have a set of points and condenser that are located underneath flywheel and usually that was a yearly chore to replace points and condenser, but todays engines use an electronic coil that does away with the points and condenser.You also can replace old style coil that has points with electronic coil, by simply bolting it on.TROUBLESHOOTING COIL is simple by disconnecting ground wire, which is usually black coming from coil,pull plug out, spin engine and watch for spark, no spark, bad coil, good spark, good coil assuming spark plug is good.You can bypass safety switches with this method also,engine wont shut off until you connect wire back though.Briggs coils from one engine to another as far as horsepower wise usually wont interchange, it all depends on the size of flywheel  in bigger horsepower engines.A SIGN of a coil going out will be that the engine will run until it gets hot and then shutdown and when it cools will fire back up and do the same thing,do the above test when its hot to check for sure that it is the coil failing.Coil gap is .010 between flywheel and coil.
Small engine wiring is relatively simple from 3hp to 20 hp.Take for example the old style briggs 12 hp without overhead valves.There are usually two wires coming from underneath the flywheel cover or cap,one is the charging wire, which comes from the alternator and it is located underneath the flywheel, it charges the battery thru one of the wires coming from underneath the flywheel cover.The other wire usually a black wire goes to the coil as a ground wire and serves to shut engine down when you turn key off, it also winds its way through your safety switches.These are actually the only two wires on a 12 hp, unless it has a fuel shutoff solonoid underneath the bowl of the carb, which most of todays engines have.The latest engines are mostly overhead valve with this fuel shutoff solonoid on the bowl,which is an added two wires to the engine,so now their are four instead of two.The fuel shut off solonoid will have usually a grey and black wire going to it, the black is a ground and the grey is a hot wire, when ignition is turned on.I f your battery is dead and you try to jump engine off, most likely it will run until you take jumper cables away,because the fuel shutoff solonoid needs a good battery to operate.I MYSELF usually by pass this solonoid by unscrewing it from the carb and snipping the pin off even with threads, when I FIND IT BAD.It is a shade tree method of getting out of spending 30 to 40 bucks for a solonoid.I ALSO INSTALL A cuttoff valve between tank and carb so I CAN CUTT FUEL OFF FROM ENGINE WHEN NOT RUNNING.In actuality a lot of troubleshooting can be performed,by disconnecting the wire to the coil, or ground wire, not spark plug wire. For instance if your engine spins and does not fire, you can disconnect this wire,and if it fires and cranks it tells you that you have a bad safety switch,since ground wire winds its way through those safety switches.The wiring on a small engine rarely gives any trouble,most of the time its the wiring on the frame of the mower or what its powering.Safety switches are usually the problem associated with not running.TIP;Indication of a bad ignition coil would be, if you disconnect the ground wire talked about above and the plug will not fire with a plug you know is good, is a good indication the coil is bad, also an engine that will run until it gets hot and shuts itself off and the when engine cools, cranks back up is another indication coil is going bad.More information on safety switches can be found in my troubleshooting guide at http://pass smallenginetrblshtng.com

Published on Wednesday 22nd of February 2012 11:20:18 PM More related articles below
  • The fly wheel key is a integral part of all small engine timing,it is made of aluminum metal, which allows it to shear instead of crankshaft breaking when engine backfires or in the case of a pushmower the blade comes into contact with something that causes the engine to shut down.When a flywheel key shears or is pinched, it puts the engine out of time, so that it will not crank or if it does it will not run smooth.A pushmower or pullrope type started small engine will kickback so to speak and actually snatch pull rope from your hand.This is a common problem on a lot of mowers, when someone hits something that shuts engine down.Bigger small engines will also shear, especially when engine is allowed to backfire, for instance, rising up on your riding mower seat and setting down before engine stops, some engines will backfire and cause the key to pinch or shear.To replace the flywheel cap has to be removed,usually there is a nut that hold the flywheel to the crankshaft or starter clutch on some pushmowers, once this nut and washer is removed the key and keyway will be visible, you usually can see if its sheared ,because key and keyway will not be aligned if sheared.The flywheel must be pulled to change key,you can use a gear puller and if a 11hp or larger engine,you most definitely will have to use a gear or wheel puller.A 3hp to a 5hp you can use a shade tree technique of rotating flywheel around to where you can strike flywheel with a rubber mallet directly accross from flywheel key while prizing underneath flywheel, or replacing the flywheel nut down even with the top of the crankshaft threads, not all the way down,and strike the nut with the mallet with the prize under the flywheel,usually after several stikes the flywheel will pop up, if not the the wheel puller would have to be used.Briggs small engines use one type of flywheel key for most all of their engines, from 3 hp to 18 hp,whereas tecumseh has four or five different keys for their different engines, why I DONT KNOW. If your engine is getting fire fuel and air and is not overhead valve engine, check the flywheel key if it wont crank.Check out our parts section.We will continue to add to it as time goes on, from tools to parts.Hope this snippet of info was useful,it is a common problem on small engines.
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  • Pushmower stop switches are connected to the handle you hold back on the handle bar.The cable going from it to the engine by releasing the bar is what stops the engine from turning.The cable is connected to a lever that is held back with a stiff spring.The lever is actually attached to a brake so to speak that grabs the flywheel and stops the motion of the engine.
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  • This past summer,I ran across some interesting thingsconcerning carbs and cams in Briggs an Strattonengines.First of all a customer brought a riding mower in with a12 hp Engine the complaint was that it was running wideopen whenever it was fired up.I immediately checked allof the linkages going to the carb,governor linkages andso forth.They checked out fineand if I had not seen this before, I would have beenstumped.What had happened and apparently was a defect thatBriggs was having on some of these engines.Thescrews that hold the butterfly in the carburetor in placehad vibrated out and were sucked into the engine,passed the valves, into the head and either they willimbede themselves into the soft aluminum head orpiston, or pass out the exhaust side.AT either rate theengine runs wide open because the butterfly cannotcontrol the gas flow .I had one that had sucked thebutterfly into the manifold,   intake manifold.I have sawthis happen to several 12 and 14 hp engines, so I know ithas to be a defect of not putting enough loctite on thebutterfly screwsSecondly, a customer brought a 15 hp intek, Briggs anstratton in.The symptoms were,it would fire up and runon idle, but would not idle up.I checked the carb, andimmediately after finding it to be o.k. Proceeded toadjust the valves,being a overhead valve engine. Thatdone, the symptoms were no better.What washappening was the intake valve was letting fuel in, butthe exhaust valve was not staying open long enough tolet exhaust out,so Iput exhaust valve way out oftolerances to see what would happen, nochange.Immediately the possibility of a bad cam cameinto mind,but the engine was no more than two yearsold, then I saw made or assembled in Mexico on theflywheel cap.I pulled the engine, disassembled thebottom crankcase, pulled the cam and wala, one of thelobes was almost completely gone.The exhaust lobe tobe exact. I did this to two 15 hp inteks last season,soapparently there is a defect in some of the cams in thenewer engines,possibly its been solved by now.Also didthis on a 17 hp engine.Note; the replacement cams wereof much better quality.Hope these snippets of info will help you,if you runacross these type of things in the future.
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