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mower carb adjust

Posted by mitchell under Lawn Mower Repair



Bowl type carburetors  are on 90 percent of todays small engines.They consist of a float, needle and bowl and usually a jet or two.Usually from season to season moisture will build up over time through condensation and that is where the problem occurs, since usually we are running on one cylinder and one spark plug,just one drop of water hitting the spark, will cause it to misfire and run errattic.Some say add stable or some other fuel additive before storing engines for long periods, but there is nothing better than a good clean out of the bowl yearly, since usually only one nut holds bowl on carburetor,sometimes a solonoid will be in place of nut, but it screws out once you disconnect wire going to it.Some of the older model bowl carbs have brass floats, and over time they will develop pin holes, allowing them to fill with fuel and not float anymore, therefore they do not cutt the gas flow off and it will sometimes find its way into your crankcase and mix with oil,which I HAVE SEEN NUMEROUS TIMES.These type floats were adjustable by bending the small metal piece the needle sets on,when the needle had a little wear on it.Todays small engines come with plastic floats, which do not have that particular problem,but the needles still wear, because they have a rubber tip on most of them, or if they are all metal they fit into a rubber seat.If YOU EVER PULL YOUR OIL STICK ON YOUR SMALL ENGINE AND ITS TOO FULL,then most likely you have gas mixed with oil, and a new needle and or seat should be replaced.Also its a good idea to install a cuttoff valve in your fuel line between carb and tank,so you can cutt fuel pressure off to carb when not in use. You can read more on this in carb section in my troubleshooting guide at http://pass.smallenginetrblshtng.com

Published on Wednesday 8th of February 2012 02:31:15 PM More related articles below
  • The fly wheel key is a integral part of all small engine timing,it is made of aluminum metal, which allows it to shear instead of crankshaft breaking when engine backfires or in the case of a pushmower the blade comes into contact with something that causes the engine to shut down.When a flywheel key shears or is pinched, it puts the engine out of time, so that it will not crank or if it does it will not run smooth.A pushmower or pullrope type started small engine will kickback so to speak and actually snatch pull rope from your hand.This is a common problem on a lot of mowers, when someone hits something that shuts engine down.Bigger small engines will also shear, especially when engine is allowed to backfire, for instance, rising up on your riding mower seat and setting down before engine stops, some engines will backfire and cause the key to pinch or shear.To replace the flywheel cap has to be removed,usually there is a nut that hold the flywheel to the crankshaft or starter clutch on some pushmowers, once this nut and washer is removed the key and keyway will be visible, you usually can see if its sheared ,because key and keyway will not be aligned if sheared.The flywheel must be pulled to change key,you can use a gear puller and if a 11hp or larger engine,you most definitely will have to use a gear or wheel puller.A 3hp to a 5hp you can use a shade tree technique of rotating flywheel around to where you can strike flywheel with a rubber mallet directly accross from flywheel key while prizing underneath flywheel, or replacing the flywheel nut down even with the top of the crankshaft threads, not all the way down,and strike the nut with the mallet with the prize under the flywheel,usually after several stikes the flywheel will pop up, if not the the wheel puller would have to be used.Briggs small engines use one type of flywheel key for most all of their engines, from 3 hp to 18 hp,whereas tecumseh has four or five different keys for their different engines, why I DONT KNOW. If your engine is getting fire fuel and air and is not overhead valve engine, check the flywheel key if it wont crank.Check out our parts section.We will continue to add to it as time goes on, from tools to parts.Hope this snippet of info was useful,it is a common problem on small engines.
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  • Bowl type carburetors  are on 90 percent of todays small engines.They consist of a float, needle and bowl and usually a jet or two.Usually from season to season moisture will build up over time through condensation and that is where the problem occurs, since usually we are running on one cylinder and one spark plug,just one drop of water hitting the spark, will cause it to misfire and run errattic.Some say add stable or some other fuel additive before storing engines for long periods, but there is nothing better than a good clean out of the bowl yearly, since usually only one nut holds bowl on carburetor,sometimes a solonoid will be in place of nut, but it screws out once you disconnect wire going to it.Some of the older model bowl carbs have brass floats, and over time they will develop pin holes, allowing them to fill with fuel and not float anymore, therefore they do not cutt the gas flow off and it will sometimes find its way into your crankcase and mix with oil,which I HAVE SEEN NUMEROUS TIMES.These type floats were adjustable by bending the small metal piece the needle sets on,when the needle had a little wear on it.Todays small engines come with plastic floats, which do not have that particular problem,but the needles still wear, because they have a rubber tip on most of them, or if they are all metal they fit into a rubber seat.If YOU EVER PULL YOUR OIL STICK ON YOUR SMALL ENGINE AND ITS TOO FULL,then most likely you have gas mixed with oil, and a new needle and or seat should be replaced.Also its a good idea to install a cuttoff valve in your fuel line between carb and tank,so you can cutt fuel pressure off to carb when not in use. You can read more on this in carb section in my troubleshooting guide at http://pass.smallenginetrblshtng.com
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